Mongolians are a strong people with an enduring sense of national pride and identity. My visit to the National Museum left me with so many questions about their recent journey to democracy. I saw a really good exhibit detailing their chronological history for the past 100 years. The country has struggled as an only child standing between the demanding, domineering parents of China and Russia. Varied influences from both countries have led to deep conflicts in ideology, such as communism vs. religion. Mongolia gained her independence from China after WW2 with Russian support, only to be managed by them via a Mongolian puppet government. In 1991, there was a successful movement to become a democracy. The past 20 years has been a struggle with building a stronger infrastructure, navigating the waters of international economic development, all while dealing with issues of internal corruption that many developing nations have.
Another challenge is how to stop or at least slow the tide of people moving to UB. As is the case in most countries, urbanization is calling people out of the rural areas to look for work in the city. Here, it means a growing edge of ger slums surrounding the city, where there are no utilities and resources are scarce. In the winter, the smoke from the wood-fueled stoves in the gers makes the air in UB almost unbreathable.
The current President, Tsakhiagiin Elbegdorj, is working to address these issues head on. Another of Anu's friends, Kelly, took me around the city and spoke of her hope and optimism that the current president will make progress in these areas. She thought he is the first leader that has a chance to really make a difference.
Though things are expensive, you can get anything you want or need here. Almost everything is imported, with most food and produce coming from China. Mongolians are very positive about America, and there are many restaurants and supermarkets dedicated to offering American fare. Almost everyone has a cell phone, and internet cafe's are available all around downtown. Many expats live and work here, which gives the city a real international flair.
I am waiting for the care package I prepared before I left that Anu shipped to me to arrive. It was delayed at some point along the route due to a strike. I hope to get it by Wednesday. Waiting for the package has kept me in UB a few days longer than I would have stayed otherwise, but I am glad for the time to rest and check it out in a leisurely way. It has given me some breathing room I needed.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
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