Pigeon love at Swayambhunath: The untold story

In a small square filled with 30 miniture temples, a population scratches out a living, finds and loses love, grows young and old in an endless cycle of life and death. Swayambhunath, otherwise known as "Monkey Temple", is a thriving center of human spiritual activities, as well as commercial activities. Both Hindus and Buddhists make pilgramages here, climbing the long steep, steps up to the stupa and temples. You can hear the sound of the bells as Hindus are blessed near the Vishnu shrine, and the whirring of prayer wheels of all sorts of devotees gaining karmic merit by spinning the wheels around the stupa. Sellers of prayer beads, gods (statues), postcards, masks, and other goods hawk their wares at the edges. Incense and smoke waft through the air. But look closer. Another drama unfolds.

The male pigeons caught my eye. Atop the cluster of little temples not more than 4 feet tall, male pigeons surveyed their small kingdom for passing females. When one came into view on the ground below (just looking for food, minding her own business) he would swoop down, and begin his assertions. He would strut, cluck, purr, and occasionally try to cop a feel. If a female made it clear she wasn't into it, he shamelessly began his performance again for the next one. The amorous males would add hops, pirouettes, and tail feather fluffing to their act, cooing "Hey ladies, check this out!" The females were uniformly unimpressed.

Occasionally, a male would be performing out of his league, and another male would swoop in and the loser would skulk off to a rooftop to wait for another chance. I watched about 30 males, all in a twitter, competing for the affection of about 20 tired and hungry females who just were looking for food and trying to avoid eye contact as the males calooh-callayed about in front of them. It felt a discovery to see the stories unfold, and fun to be watching a different channel than what others were tuned to. (For the record, I did also enjoy the spirituality of the place, and gained some karmic merit before starting my pigeon observations.)

Today I had planned to go to the village school, but the flight was cancelled after a 4 hour wait due to runway conditions (too soggy for the low clearance landing gear). I will try again tomorrow. I didn't get bothered by the weariness of the day, and enjoyed watching the people (as they enjoyed watching me). An amazing lightening storm and rain drenched the city last night, which means the monsoons are starting. It is a perfect time for them to come for the farmers to prosper. I'm glad for it, even if it meant I was delayed today.

Peace!