The Great Wall at Mutianyu

Today I experienced one of the 7 wonders of the world. The Mutianyu section of the Great Wall of China (located 70 km from Beijing) is one of the best preserved sections. The foundations of the wall were built in the 6th century, and the current wall was built in the 1500s. Mists swirled in the dense forest as the cable car took me away from the t-shirt and souvenir hawkers and into history. When I reached the top, a Chinese couple in their wedding fancywear posed as a professional photographer and assistants bustled about. The wall undulated along the ridge as far as I could see in both directions.

“I’m on the Great Wall!” Strange to be on such an iconic structure. Reconciling the feel of rough hewn stone with the ideas and images collected in my mind. I stood in the watchtowers and imagined the place alive with scurrying soldiers, shouts, smoke. Low doorways and small steps whispered clues about the size of the people. Wondered if the resources and blood spent building the wall was worth the protection it provided. Did it really work? Did it keep nasty northern invaders out, as intended? Apparently for several stretches, at different times in history, it did.

After an hour of hiking along the wall, I made it to the highest point after climbing a very steep stretch of stairs with about 700 feet elevation gain. Got a couple of pictures before the clouds swallowed me and the wall up and the rain began. Covered in my raincoat, I carefully hiked back over the slick granite stones. The fog was so dense, I walked right past the cable car station and ended up a mile later at another one. I felt exhilarated and happy, snapping photos, imagining the wall at different times in history and smiling at other visitors as they passed.

I booked the China portion of my trip from Kathmandu, where my agent there put together a package for me. With such a short time here, doing it all on my own was too much as I am getting ready for Mongolia. Without meaning to, I’ve been launched (temporarily) into another world of travel. My hotel is a 4-star high-rise behemoth, with an older historic section attached. The big section was booked, so they gave me a small lovely room overlooking the garden in the antique (and more expensive) part of the hotel. I have hand-carved antique furnishings, high ceilings, memorabilia from 40s China, Tiffany dragonfly lamps. Kind of fun. All the other guests (mostly European) are on group tours, with big buses coming and going from the grand covered entrance. Uniformed bell hops assist white haired visitors with baggage. I think of my Grandfather Cowan, as he traveled extensively this way. He enjoyed it, and got to see many places…it just isn’t my style. Funny to feel as foreign to the other travelers as I do with the locals.

Though I know I could have figured out a cheaper way to do it, I hired a driver for $100 to take me for the day to the Great Wall. Today I am going supercheap and will see what I can see on foot. Tomorrow I leave for Western China on the train. I think I turned a corner yesterday with this illness that has been with me the past 2 weeks. I’ve eaten 2 meals now without serious gastric revolt. Fingers crossed!